Tails From Le Woof

tidbits and facts about dog training and behaviour

Archive for the 'Dog tips and info' Category

18.04.2010

Hello everyone,

I found this article in the Psychology today. I hope you read it and please let me know your thoughts.

February 18, 2010, Animal Behavior
Trainers With Jackhammers Need Not Apply Behavior isn’t like cement-trainers with jackhammers need not apply.
Published on February 18, 201
0
I get how it happens. If you live in a no pain, no gain world long enough, you start believing that good training involves breaking things. Just look at the way we talk about behavior change: We break horses, habits, spirits, and each other’s backs. We even break houses to teach puppies where to pee. The expectation that training requires force and coercion is so ingrained in our culture that we actually idolize those who break behavior best: Hail Caesar!

It’s time to take a deep breath and blow away that cultural fog. You don’t need to break anything to change behavior, but you do need to notice how behavior works. That’s exactly what behavior scientists have been doing for over 100 years and the resulting behavior-change technology, applied behavior analysis (ABA), is applicable to all species of learners.

Science confirms that behavior doesn’t occur in a vacuum. There is an inherent connection between an animal’s behavior and the environment in which it behaves. Science confirms that behavior doesn’t spray out of animals willy-nilly like water from a leaky showerhead: Animals behave for a reason, to affect the environment in some way.

Dogs bark to get a buddy with opposable thumbs to open the back door; parrots bite to remove hands that pursue them relentlessly; and, children goof off to escape arithmetic worksheets. We behave for an effect. You know this or you wouldn’t make it out of bed in the morning.

No animal keeps behaving for bad outcomes. When a behavior is ineffective (from the behaving individual’s point of view), animals behave differently next time. But, to know what to do instead, animals need good outcomes, which serve as positive feedback about the adequacy of the behavior. This is learning: evolved flexibility. It is the nature of all animals to change what they do based on the feedback consequences provide.

Cultural fog has us groping inside the animal for what we need to break – its dominance, jealousy, or hormones – when we should be looking in the environment for the purpose behavior serves. Once we understand the purpose, we can train the animal to achieve that purpose by doing an appropriate alternative behavior or teach new skills for new outcomes.

I’m not just talking about dogs, parrots or kids. I’m talking about fleas and flamingos, too. It turns out Noah’s Ark isn’t just a celebration of diversity. It’s also a celebration of likeness – in this case, how animals learn. The bottom line is, behavior isn’t like cement, so trainers with jackhammers need not apply.

Trainer’s Tip #1: Instead of asking, “What’s wrong with this animal?” ask, “What purpose does this behavior serve?

04.01.2010

I wanted to start the new year with something that would touch people in a positive way and when I saw this I new I had found it. Sorry for the tears and happy new year to you all.

Antecedent Intervention

Author: laurent
08.10.2009

Hello everyone,

Here is a great article I found in The dog star daily. I see this happening in my puppy training classes all the time. Please read it and give me your feed back on that topic.

Laurent

Antecedent Intervention

by Erica houck young


It is well established, I think, that dogs learn mostly via two ways: Association & Consequence.  In either of those two topics there are a myriad of variables that can potentially work for and against an owner.

In the “Consequence” category we have a simple paradigm of how dogs pick up a cue.  One can put it in a simple way and say “dogs do flowcharts”.  The flowchart for a dog is as follows:

Antecedent – Behavior – Consequence

Now, what do all these things mean?  Antecedent refers to the catalyst, or stimulus, that causes a dog to react in a certain way.  Examples of antecedents are verbal commands, strangers, leashes, and doorbells.  The list is quite endless.  Behavior is just that – how your dog responds to the antecedent and the consequence is the result of said behavior, which either reinforces or punishes the behavior thus causing it to happen more or less.

What I’d like to focus on is the A part of the equation – Antecedents.  They are numerous, easy to stack on top of one another, and, for a lot of dog owners, very difficult to avoid.  Pam Reid talks about a “package of stimuli” in her book, Excel-erated Learning, which basically refers to the entire picture your dog sees, hears, and smells in addition to what we perceive that our dog senses.  Most often in dog obedience training the extra antecedents are caused by our body language.  We raise an eyebrow, lean over our dog, have the alluring scent of liver on our hands, and give our dog the hand signal for sit.  What is the dog really learning as the cue to make him sit?  It might not be what you think.

Unfortunately for us, not all antecedents are created equal.  The first of the 5 senses your dog gets in life during his neonatal period is not sight or hearing – it is touch.  This is why it is indefinitely important to do as much “hands-off” training as possible as this is a very salient antecedent that is difficult to fade out of training.  The second most important sense is smell – your dog’s scent receptors in his nose are said to be enough to fill a space the size of a Kleenex.  Our scent receptors are only enough to fill a space the size of a postage stamp.  Chances are he knows what’s for dinner even before you do.

The problem lies in what I call “Muddied Antecedentville”.  No, you can’t vacation there, but many owners seem to live there year round.  We humans, with our big complex brains and emotions, often do not realize the subtle (or not so) “extra” signals we give out while training our dogs.

So, why is this information important to us?

When we attempt to install cues for certain behaviors in our dogs their learning process can be hindered by excess antecedents.  The clearer the picture we draw for our dogs about what we’d like them to do, the more efficient our training becomes.  The two of the demons of dog training that play a hand in fouling up our intended antecedents are called blocking and overshadowing.  Fancy terms, yes, but definitely simple ideas.

Overshadowing refers to having too many new antecedents present and one that is unintended “winning out” for your dog’s attention.  An example of this would be moving a food lure down between your dog’s paws while saying the word “down”.  What do you suspect your dog is learning predicts the “down” position?  Most likely NOT the verbal cue you gave.  The less salient antecedent of your voice is drowned out by the smell of food because we presented them together.

The other side of the coin is blocking.  Blocking refers to presenting a new antecedent like a verbal cue at the same time as a known antecedent like a hand signal.  If you say “Sit” at the same time as your hand signal the dog does not learn anything new regarding your verbal cue because he already knows what he needs to from your hand signal.  Again, presenting these things together muddies up our delivery.

I have noticed some of my students in training classes give countless “extra” body signals they don’t even realize they are doing – but their dogs do.  In the end, they’ve leaned over the dog while raising an eyebrow with their one hand in the treat pouch while the other  hand gives a hand signal – what exactly did the dog learn was the cue for “Sit” again?  In case this evening I noticed this exact “stimulus package” being offered to a Havanese pup during a “Down” exercise.  I asked the student to step in front of her dog and simply lean over in the manner she was doing with her cue without doing anything else – the dog laid down.  Extremely astute dogs will also begin to sing and dance at the sight of a treat pouch on your waist – huge antecedent.  Is that the end of the world? No, but don’t be surprised when you stand up straight and ask for the behavior with your intended cue – the hand signal – and get a dull stare.

How can you avoid muddying up your cues (antecedents)?

- Focus on doing one thing at a time.  Say the cue; give a half-second pause, and then follow-up with the hand signal your dog is familiar with.

- Rule out as many extra antecedents as you can so you provide your dog with a very easy-to-understand flowchart.  Practice in quieter environments at first.

- Give one word cues.  “Rover, will you please sit down” is not a cue.

- Keep your hand out of your treat pouch until AFTER the desire behavior is achieved.  There is no louder sound or more salient motion in the world to a dog than a pouch reach and bag crinkle.

Mom said “sit”, moved her hand in that certain funny way, and then I sat and got paid.  Rinse and repeat until the dog knows that the antecedent of “Sit” = bum on the ground and tasty goodness.

Last, it is important to note that this is only part of the battle that is dog training.  There are other issues that exist to lengthen the training time and unclear antecedents (cues) are but a small part.  Good Luck & Happy Training!

Another great dog trainer

Author: laurent
19.09.2009

You can see that the dogs seems happy and I love at the end when they all come get a threat. Awesome job!

This information has been prepared as a service by the American Veterinary Medical Association.


What is canine parvovirus?

Canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2) is a highly contagious and serious disease caused by a virus that attacks the gastrointestinal tract of puppies, dogs, and wild canids (e.g. foxes, wolves, coyotes). It was first identified in 1978 and is seen worldwide. It also can damage the heart muscle in very young and unborn puppies.

There are several variants of CPV-2 (CPV-2a, CPV-2b, CPV-2c) based on analysis of the genetics of the virus, but they produce similar signs in animals. CPV-2b is the most common variant in the US. CPV-2c was first confirmed in the U.S. in 2006, and is becoming the second most common variant.

How is parvovirus spread?

CPV-2 is highly contagious and is spread by direct dog-to-dog contact and contact with contaminated feces (stool), environments or people. The virus can also contaminate kennel surfaces, food and water bowls, collars and leashes, and the hands and clothing of people who handle infected dogs. It is resistant to heat, cold, humidity, and drying, and can survived in the environment for long periods of time. Even trace amounts of feces containing parvovirus may serve as environmental reservoirs of the virus and infect other dogs that come into the infected envinronment. CPV-2 is readily transmitted from place to place on the hair or feet of dogs or via contaminated cages, shoes, or other objects.

What dogs are at risk?

All dogs are at risk, but puppies less than four months old and dogs that have not been vaccinated against canine parvovirus are at increased risk of becoming infected and ill.

What are some signs of parvovirus infection?

Dogs infected with the CPV-2 virus that are ill are often said to have “parvo.” CPV-2 infection causes lethargy; loss of appetite; fever; vomiting; and severe, often bloody, diarrhea. Vomiting and diarrhea can cause rapid dehydration, and most deaths from parvovirus occur within 48 to 72 hours following the onset of clinical signs. If your puppy or dog shows any of these signs, you should contact your veterinarian immediately.

How is canine parvovirus diagnosed and treated?

CPV-2 infection is often suspected based on the dog’s history, physical examination, and laboratory tests. Fecal testing can confirm the diagnosis.

No specific drug is available that will kill the virus in infected dogs, and treatment is intended to support the dog’s body systems until the dog’s immune system can fight off the viral infection. Treatment should be started immediately and consists primarily of efforts to combat dehydration by replacing electrolyte and fluid losses, controlling vomiting and diarrhea, and preventing secondary infections. Sick dogs should be kept warm and receive good nursing care. When a dog develops parvo, treatment can be very expensive, and the dog may die despite aggressive treatment. Early recognition and aggressive treatment are very important in successful outcomes.

Since CPV-2 is highly contagious, isolation of infected dogs is necessary to minimize spread of infection. Proper cleaning and disinfection of contaminated kennels and other areas where infected dogs are (or have been) housed is essential to control the spread of parvovirus. The virus is not easily killed, so consult your veterinarian for specific guidance on cleaning and disinfecting agents.

How is parvovirus prevented?

Vaccination and good hygiene are critical components of canine parvovirus prevention.

Vaccination is extremely important. Young puppies are very susceptible to infection, particularly because the natural immunity provided in their mothers’ milk may wear off before the puppies’ own immune systems are mature enough to fight off infection. If a puppy is exposed to canine parvovirus during this gap in protection, it may become ill. An additional concern is that immunity provided by a mother’s milk may interfere with an effective response to vaccination. This means even vaccinated puppies may occasionally be infected by parvovirus and develop disease. To reduce gaps in protection and provide the best protection against parvovirus during the first few months of life, a series of puppy vaccinations are administered. Puppies should receive a dose of canine parvovirus vaccine between 14 and 16 weeks of age, regardless of how many doses they received earlier, to develop adequate protection.

To protect their adult dogs, pet owners should be sure that their dog’s parvovirus vaccination is up-to-date. Ask your veterinarian about a recommended vaccination program for your canine companion.

In spite of proper vaccination, a small percentage of dogs do not develop protective immunity and remain susceptible to infection.

HygieneUntil a puppy has received its complete series of vaccinations, pet owners should use caution when bringing their pet to places where young puppies congregate (e.g. pet shops, parks, puppy classes, obedience classes, doggy daycare, kennels, and grooming establishments). Reputable establishments and training programs reduce exposure risk by requiring vaccinations, health examinations, good hygiene, and isolation of ill puppies and dogs. Contact with known infected dogs and their premises should always be avoided.

Finally, do not allow your puppy or dog to come into contact with the fecal waste of other dogs while walking or playing outdoors. Prompt and proper disposal of waste material is always advisable as a way to limit spread of canine parvovirus infection as well as other diseases that can infect humans and animals. Dogs with vomiting or diarrhea or other dogs which have been exposed to ill dogs should not be taken to kennels, show grounds, dog parks, or other areas where they will come into contact with other dogs. Similarly, unvaccinated dogs should not be exposed to ill dogs or those with unknown vaccination histories. People who are in contact with sick or exposed dogs should avoid handling of other dogs or at least wash their hands and change their clothes before doing so.

Although this brochure provides basic information about canine parvovirus, your veterinarian is always your best source of health information. Consult your veterinarian for more information about canine parvovirus and its prevention.

16.08.2009

Hello everyone.

I really enjoyed this documentary and I would love you to watch it . I’ll post the part 2 real soon.

Enjoy!

\

Dog Bite Prevention

Author: laurent
02.08.2009

Dog Bite Emergencies

If you are bitten by a dog, here is a checklist of things you should do:

  • If the dog’s owner is present, request proof of rabies vaccination, and get the owner’s name and contact information.
  • Clean bite wound with soap and water as soon as possible.
  • Consult your doctor immediately or go to the emergency room if it’s after office hours.
  • Contact the dog’s veterinarian to check vaccination records.

This is from the American Veterinary Medical Association.
Remember when dealing with dogs to always be safe


Did you know that …

  • 4.7 million people in this country are bitten by dogs every year
  • children are by far the most common victims
  • 800,000 Americans receive medical attention for dog bites each year
  • children are far more likely to be severely injured; approximately 400,000 receive medial attention every year
  • most dog bites affecting young children occur during everyday activities and while interacting with familiar dogs
  • senior citizens are the second most common dog bite victims

There are a number of things that you can do to avoid dog bites, ranging from properly training and socializing your pet to educating your children on how, or if, they should approach a dog. Information is one of the best cures for this public health crisis.

What’s a dog owner to do?

  • Carefully select your pet. Puppies should not be obtained on impulse.
  • Make sure your pet is socialized as a young puppy so it feels at ease around people and other animals.
  • Don’t put your dog in a position where it feels threatened or teased.
  • Train your dog. The basic commands “sit,” “stay,” “no,” and “come” help dogs understand what is expected of them and can be incorporated into fun activities that build a bond of trust between pets and people.
  • Walk and execrcise your dog regularly to keep it healthy and prived mental stimulation.
  • Avoid highly excitable games like wrestling or tug-of-war.
  • Use a leash in public to ensure you are able to control your dog.
  • Keep your dog healthy. Have your dog vaccinated against rabies and preventable infectious diseases. Parasite control and other health care are important because how your dog feels affects how it behaves.
  • Neuter your pet.
  • If you have a fenced yard, make sure the gates are secure.

How can you protect your family?

  • Be cautious around strange dogs, and treat your own pet with respect. Because children are the most common victims of dog bites, parents and caregivers should:
  • NEVER leave a baby or small child alone with a dog.
  • Be alert for potentially dangerous situations.
  • Teach their children – including toddlers – to be careful around pets. Children must learn not to approach strange dogs or try to pet dogs through fences. Teach children to ask permission from the dog’s owner before petting the dog.

Dog throws is own ball

Author: laurent
12.07.2009

I laughed when I saw this and thought it was ingenious


Can a dog really do Math?

Author: laurent
21.06.2009

16.06.2009

This article is from a magazine call modern dog. I will try some of that myself.  Again, Enjoy


Provide variety and a nutritional boost

By Elizabeth Pask and Laura Scott

As a responsible and informed dog lover, you probably know that too much “people food” can make your dog ill or overweight, but there are some human foods that can be safely added to your dog’s meals in moderation to give a nutritional boost to Queenie’s diet and add a bit of variety to her food bowl. Just remember: any additions to your dog’s meals shouldn’t comprise more than 25 percent of her weekly caloric requirement.

1. Yogurt is a good source of available calcium and protein. When choosing yogurt, pick one that has live active bacteria and no sugars or artificial sweeteners. The active bacteria may act as probiotics. If your pooch is pudgy, make sure that you pick fat-free yogurt but not one that contains fat substitutes (e.g., Simplesse or Olestra). Frozen yogurt is a nice summer treat for dogs.

2. Flax seed (ground or oil) is a good source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are essential fatty acids that are good for skin and coat. Whole flax seeds are best if ground right before feeding as this type of fat can go rancid quickly. Flax seed can also be added to your dog’s diet as a source of fibre. Flax oil is a more concentrated form of omega- 3 fatty acids without the fibre. Make sure that you store the oil or seeds in the fridge in an air tight dark container.

3. Salmon is a fatty fish which is also a good source of omega- 3 fatty acids. These fats support the immune system and can be beneficial for skin and coat health. There has also been some indication that they may benefit dogs with allergies. You can feed salmon or salmon oil. If feeding salmon, make sure it’s cooked before serving, as raw salmon can carry a parasite that can make your dog sick. 4 Pumpkin is a good source of fibre and beta carotene (a source of vitamin A). Dogs need fibre in their diet. The current trend is towards highly digestible diets that lower stool volume and this is not necessarily a good thing. Keeping the GI tract moving helps keep the cells lining the gut healthy.

4. Pumpkin is a good source of fibre and beta carotene (a source of vitamin A). Dogs need fibre in their diet. The current trend is towards highly digestible diets that lower stool volume and this is not necessarily a good thing. Keeping the GI tract moving helps keep the cells lining the gut healthy.

5. Sweet potatoes are another source of dietary fibre and contain vitamin B6, vitamin C, beta carotene, and manganese. Sweet potatoes are great sliced and dehydrated as a chewy treat for your dog. There are so many dog treats on the market that we often overlook the simple, healthy, and reasonably priced treats available at our grocery store.

6. Green beans are a good source of plant fibre, vitamin K, vitamin C, and manganese. If your dog has a tendency to put on weight, then replacing some of her regular food with green beans is a great low calorie way to fill her up and help her maintain a healthy weight. Many dogs enjoy green beans frozen.

7. Eggs are a great source of very digestible protein, riboflavin, and selenium. For some dogs that are prone to digestive upset, eggs can give them a little protein boost. Adding eggs to your dog’s food is a healthy treat. Make sure to use cooked whole egg, as raw egg whites can cause biotin deficiency. If you do a lot of training with your dog, consider taking cooked eggs to your next class as training treats.

8. Brewer’s yeast is the yeast that’s left over from making alcohol. Dogs seem to really enjoy the tangy taste of brewer’s yeast. It’s full of B vitamins which are good for skin, coat, and carbohydrate metabolism. Make sure you’re using brewer’s yeast (available at health food stores), not baking yeast which will make your dog sick. Brewer’s yeast can spice up your dog’s appetite. Just sprinkle a little on the food of a picky eater and watch her dive into her food.

9. Apples are wonderful crunchy treats for your dog. Apples with the skin on are full of plant chemicals (phytonutrients) that are thought to be protective against some types of cancer in humans. They are a source of vitamins A and C and fibre. Apple seeds, however, contain cyanide so your dog should not be allowed to eat the core. Though the effects of a few apple seeds will likely not harm your dog, the deleterious effects can accumulate over time if allowed to eat apple seeds regularly.

10. Oatmeal is a good source of soluble fibre. This can be beneficial for some older dogs that may have trouble maintaining bowel regularity. Oatmeal is also an alternative source of grain for dogs that are allergic to wheat. It can be fed in conjunction with probiotics to enhance their function. Keep in mind oatmeal should always be fed cooked and plain with no sugar or flavouring. As always, check with your veterinarian before making any major changes to your dog’s diet, especially if they are on any medications. Upsetting the vitamin and mineral balances in your dog’s diet can have negative effects on your dog’s health and some medications interact badly with some nutrients. The aim of most dog owners is to give their dogs the best diet possible. Good nutrition coupled with a health care program may result in extending your dog’s life by as much as 15 percent. The suggestions above are not meant to replace your dog’s normal, balanced diet. Rather, they are ideas for alternative treats or for adding a little variety to your dog’s meals.